LAPHROAIG 18 YEAR
There’s a real expression of terroir in Laphroaig’s
fantastic 18-year iteration. It’s said
that Laphy get much of their distinctive maritime tang from the relatively
higher amounts of moss in the peat they use, and, after all, what purer
expression of terroir could you imagine than malting your barley over
smouldering terroir? Baby coal rears its naughty head in
petroleate aromas in Laphroaig’s quarter cask offerings, but here the peat is
coastal and airy; the wonderful balance and elegant texture of the 10-year are ratcheted
up several notches, which, perhaps counter-intuitively, results in a more
subtle, feminine whisky.
nose: Alive with mossy stones-after-rain,
pineapples and slate. There’s a gentle,
warm tropicality here, like banana pudding and sweet roasted walnuts,
overarched by gorgeous, feminine smoke.
A note of fleshy saddle leather adds a compelling, earthy aspect to the
outro.
palate: Beautiful, plush coils of smoke; candied
lemons and country ham, salty and bright; a flirtatious core of berries- kirsch
and something darker, more sylvan; incense ash and chai spices, particularly cardamom
and black pepper, towards the end. The
finish is a riotous bloom of sweet citrus and clean seawater; tastes
like love and piney campfire. All this is dressed up in an unbelievably
supple, sensuous mouthfeel that gets the blood racing with its length and concupiscent,
unctuous texture. It rings in the mouth
for minutes afterwards, glorying in this marvelous texture and Islay
provenance.
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